Notice the handling holes at the waste and under the base. I’ve inserted an image of a forged anvil. This is where large tongs gripped the body while it was forged.Īnother indication of forged construction is having a stamped makers mark, depressed into the steel rather than raised out of it.Forged wrought iron anvils have two very common “faults” - “delamination” and “sway”. The most obvious is the presence of handling holes at the waste of the anvil and often a handling hole under the base of the anvil. Notable makers include Mousehole Forge, Peter Wright, Hill, Isaac Nash, Henry Wright, Wilkinsons and many others.Īll forged anvils have identifying features that give away their construction. Older anvils had the face plate made up of several different pieces of steel, as steel was harder to make in large sections. The fact that so many survive today is a testament to the quality of their construction methods. There are numerous British and American makers that used this method and it makes a superb anvil. These anvils have a forged wrought iron body with a steel face welded to the top. The oldest construction method of the bunch. If anyone has issue with me using their image please let me know so I can take it down. If you have an anvil that looks similar to the ones I’ve shown then please post them here so that we can use images from forum members. All rights go to their respective owners. Some are even better than a “real” anvil for one reason or another.Īlso I’d like to make it very clear that this guide is aimed at newcomers to the craft and not seasoned smiths.Īlso I’d like to note I’ve copied these images from the internet. "Real" anvils are usually very expensive (your location in the world makes a big difference) not to mention relatively rare and hard to find.Īll too often I see posts on forums or Facebook where a new smith has spent all of their spare cash because they “HAD” to have an anvil.Ī large sledge hammer head, a section of rail track mounted vertically (more mass under the hammer) or any large chunk of scrap steel will make a perfectly serviceable anvil. This is a very long read so go get a nice beverage and settle in - we seem to have a number of folks getting into blacksmithing at the minute and this is a post I wrote out some years ago for another forum that people have found helpful in the past so I thought I'd post it here too.įirst of all I want to make it very clear that if you’re just starting out in blacksmithing you DO NOT NEED a “London Pattern anvil” to start hitting hot metal on. Weights can also be added to For those wising to attach other accessories Magpule MOE 5-Slot Picatinny rails are also compatible with the AirMarksman Anvil’s pre drilled holes.Ok chaps - I can't for the life of me remember if I ever posted this here before so mods please feel to move/ remove as necessary. For shooters looking to add more weight to the rail system, a M-Lok compatible channel runs the length of the side portions of the rail with pre-tapped 10-24 holes that are spaced to fit AirMarksman brass weights as well as popular weights available from MDT. Weighing in at a beefy 2 pounds, the AirMarksman Anvil Rail further adds balance to the rifle by accounting for the back heavy nature of the FX Impact. The underside of the ARCA rail is also cross-hatched to add more grip when the rail is placed on bags and other obstacles when shooting. This also gives shooters a flat, level surface under the natural balance point of the rifle, makng shooting from a bag or barricade more stable. Designed to work with any bottle size up to 700cc’s, the Anvil’s ARCA rail extends both forward under the bottle, as well as rearward under the trigger to give the shooter 16.25 inches of usable rail space. Based on an initial design concept that was brought to AirMarksman from active NRL/PRS shooters, the AirMarkman Anvil Rail for the FX Impact is the first under-bottle rail designed to bring both ARCA functionality and improved balance to the Impact platform.
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